Review: Grana Hits its Stride

Back in July, when Grana first opened, the wood-burning oven was the key feature to differentiating it from your local pizzeria. Chef David Plath made his outstanding crust and the wood burning oven did the rest. The pizzas were small, the toppings were hit or miss and the rest of the menu was pretty limited.

Here it is, six months later. now has a wine and beer license featuring local wines such as Jamesport Vineyards and Blue Moon beer. The chalkboards are full of daily specials that sound so appealing, you don't know which to try first. The wood-burning oven still takes center stage, but it's now not the only attraction.

There are dishes like Penne with Broccoli Rabe and Duroc Pork Sausage in a homey, comforting Parmesan broth. The Pasta Putanesca had a rich and thick sauce, studded with capers and just spicy enough to earn the appellation of Putanesca. The homemade soups were spot on. The Minestrone tastes like classic Minestrone should taste and the Pasta Fagioli was the best I've ever had. It was made thick and creamy with pureed beans and could have been a main dish with bread and salad. Another inspiration is the chef's Meatballs and Sauce over a bed of arugula served with homemade bread. I say this because simplicity is a virtue in cooking. A few quality ingredients with no bells or whistles is all you need. This dish even has the added value of being served on top of a salad green which makes you feel so virtuous.

But let's go back to those pizzas.

Chef David has introduced some original topping combinations that actually work (even if you're a purist like me). The fresh Mozzarella (made in house) with Parmigiano-Reggiano, Garlic Herb Ricotta (also house-made) and Arugula was a perfect example of what happens when you put together the highest quality ingredients in the right proportion and on that extraordinary crust. The crust – Chef David is a master of pizza crust. It is chewy and crisp at the same time (I don't know how he does it) and has a smoky almost blackened flavor from the wood oven. The pizzas are somewhat larger now – 14 inches as opposed to the former 11 inches. This was a smart move because two people can happily share a 14 inch pizza and not feel as if they are overpaying.

I have to tell you that I had to go back to Grana again a few days later, because I found out that Chef makes his own pasta mid-week. Given that all of the other homemade ingredients were so good, I just had to try the pasta.  So glad I did. We tried the pasta Bolognese. This is made with local (Noyack) beef, pork and cream with just a hint of tomato. It is absolutely classic and absolutely delicious. The Penne with Sautéed Eggplant, Toasted Pinenuts, Tomato, Currants and Pecorino Romano was truly outstanding. The eggplant is earthy, slightly smoky and melts in your mouth. 

This is a small, neighborhood-y restaurant with about 30 seats. The service is not totally polished but the family staff makes up for that in their genuine warmth and friendliness. The décor exudes warmth as well and is inviting and appealing while also casual.  They're open Tuesday through Sunday from noon to 9 p.m. - or as they say, "til' the dough runs out."

Read a business profile of Grana .